Why does our skin need vitamin C? Why can’t you apply pharmacy ascorbin to your face? How can we make the most of antioxidants and when should we avoid them?
Vitamin C is one of the most popular active ingredients in skin care. It stimulates collagen production, protects skin from oxidative stress, adds radiance, improves healing, reduces inflammation, fights photodamage and pigmentation. This antioxidant vitamin is easily synthesized in almost all animals, but it is not produced in humans at all. Therefore, it is important to ensure its constant intake through food and care products.
How does vitamin C work in cosmetics?
Vitamin C is a must-have ingredient in skin care. It performs a great number of important functions:
- It participates in collagen synthesis and improves skin elasticity;
- Reduces the harmful effects of the sun’s rays;
- Gives luminosity and evens skin tone;
- brightens the skin and combats the signs of photoaging;
- Strengthens capillaries;
- Increases the skin’s defenses and reduces the intensity of inflammation, helps fight acne.
Who needs products with vitamin C?
Vitamin C is one of those universal ingredients that can benefit all skin types and conditions. But be aware that cosmetics with this ingredient can cause redness, tingling and itching. A slight tingling sensation in the first minutes after application is normal. However, if you have sensitive skin or atopic dermatitis, choose products with vitamin C carefully and give preference to more stable forms (we will tell you about them below).
Can I apply pharmacy vitamin C to my face?
For vitamin C to perform its main functions, it must be used in a certain form and concentration. Ascorbic acid has the insidious property of quickly oxidizing in the air, so using tablets, capsules and ampoules of vitamin C from the pharmacy for your face will at best be ineffective, and at worst will end in dermatitis.
What are the most effective forms of vitamin C?
Vitamin C (Ascorbic acid) and its derivative forms can be found in cosmetic products. This is because the form of Ascorbic acid is very unstable. It is easily oxidized by light, heat, and changes in pH. To prevent this from happening, scientists have developed various derivatives of vitamin C, which retain all the effectiveness and have a stable formula.
Let’s take a look at the main forms of vitamin C and find out which ones are right for your skin!
Ascorbic acid (L-ascorbic acid) is the most powerful form, the most studied and the most unstable, so it is very important to store such a product correctly – without access to light and high temperatures. Means with this component should be used immediately (i.e. do not keep for a long time after opening). That is why it is preferable to choose products with Ascorbic acid in ampoule form.
This form can cause irritation, so people with sensitive skin should use it very carefully. In oily skin Ascorbic acid may cause acne.
Ascorbyl glucoside is the second most researched form of vitamin C. Stable. Just as effective as L-ascorbic acid in fighting wrinkles and pigmentation. And this is where you can start with vitamin C, especially if you have sensitive skin or have problems with rosacea.
Ascorbyl palmitate shows good antioxidant properties, but if you are familiar with the problem of age spots, you should not count on this form, since there is no evidence-based research in this direction yet. It is more suitable for young skin care.
Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate – quickly penetrates the skin, but you should pay attention to its percentage in the composition of products (the higher the better). Stable. Recommended for rosacea-prone skin as well as for frequently occurring hypersensitivity.
Sodium ascorbyl phosphate is a powerful antioxidant. It is fairly stable and less fastidious with regard to light and heat. It is the best choice for those with oily, problematic skin, since according to some sources, it can increase the effect of other anti-acne ingredients. It is effective even at a low concentration of 1%.
When to use products with vitamin C?
You can use products containing vitamin C both in the morning and in the evening. But it is important to remember that during the active sun, vitamin C can increase the sensitivity of the skin to ultraviolet light. Therefore, sunscreen should be used during the day.
Can I use products with vitamin C in summer?
Products with a concentration of 3-5% can and should be used in summer: they will protect against the effects of increased exposure to ultraviolet light. The main thing is not to forget about sun protection.
The time to use vitamin products depends on the concentration: if the product contains less than 10% of vitamin C, you can apply it in the morning. But if the concentration is higher (for example, 15-20%), it is better to use such products in the evening – this is due to the fact that a high percentage of vitamin C can increase the sensitivity of the skin to UV light, provoke irritation and make the skin more sensitive.
When choosing products for the summer or vacation period, give preference exclusively to stable formulas.
What are the best vitamin C remedies?
The most effective formulas with vitamin C come in the form of serums. It is also useful to introduce cleansers and moisturizers with this ingredient into your care. It is helpful to combine vitamin C with other antioxidants, such as vitamin E or ferulic acid.